It has been ages since I was on Mombasa road. I keep getting amazed at how things changed when Mombasa road was rebuilt by Straberg, the German company. More changes are still happening with the standard gauge railway construction that is on-going. Flyovers like the one at Emali have been redone, some towns were abandoned by the highway as the new version was re-routed outside town, and new townships have sprouted that were not there ten years ago.
The team spent the night at Kiboko police station. The police officers here are the friendliest we have encountered so far. They actually waited on the road for the team to arrive yesterday afternoon. They ensured the team was comfortable at camp and this morning, gave a complete outrider escort all the way to the next stop, Makindu!
The team is very well received at one of Kenya's most hospitable little gems one can ever think of, the Makindu Sikh Temple (Gurdwara). This little haven of peace was founded in 1926 by the Sikhs who were constructing the Kenya-Uganda railway. It is well known for its open-door policy, providing a haven of peace for weary travelers irrespective of their background. Everyone is provided with food at no cost.
The team is warmly received and everyone is provided for a room. The manager of the premise himself welcomes them and invites them to dine at the huge dining facility. As the men don headgear and sit to lunch, one can't help but wonder about the level of hospitality in this Gurdwara. The kindness is extended to all, irrespective of their origin, religious beliefs or duration of stay. Despite the first class service and great food, there are no charges. Well wishers donate to the temple and this partly contributes to keeping the place running.
The generosity and kindness displayed here reminds me of my childhood. I grew up in the small town of Kericho. Back in the 80s, it was the most cosmopolitan little town in the whole of Kenya. We had people from all communities in Kenya living peacefully in harmony. We had a large Asian and Nubian community too and we all went to the same public school as kids. What is stuck in my memory though is how we spent religious festivals as a town. During Ramadhan and its culmination to Idd-ul-fitr, all kids spent the evenings in the Muslim homes enjoying the culinary delights prepared. During Diwali, we were found in the Hindu homes, eating chevda and setting off fireworks. Christmases were spent in the Christian's homes staying up late enjoying the excess food prepared specially for the occasion. The town was the safest in Kenya and we could walk home at 10pm without fear. Everyone knew their neighbor and one did not get alarmed to get home and find their kids were not yet home.
The Makindu Gurdwara sent me back to my blissful childhood. I wonder what it would take to reclaim that lifestyle. I am thankful that at least, the Sikh community has invested seriously in preserving that memory. Stop by sometime, even if to just meditate...
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